Canyonlands National Park Utah

Canyonlands is divided into 2 unconnected parts - one is to the south, one to the north. In addition there are parts scattered along the roadside. The first arch of the park is beside the main road and is Wilsons Arch.

This park is more inclusive than Arches since it includes phenomenal geologic structures, canyons and historical assets. This is newspaper rock which is also outside the park along the road. These are 2000 years old. One would think they would be behind glass or some such thing.

The sad thing here is there is pretty much nothing known about the petroglyph. Actually most any question I posed to the folk attending the visitors center was unanswered because it was not known - like this turquoise color rock - everyone knows what the red is (iron) but what is this lovely, unusual turquoise color? We don't really know for sure was the answer. How can the park service not know?

The south end has a road said to lead to an outlook to the Colorado River -- do not take that road!! There are levels of roads within the park - some are labeled as 2 wd roads even if unpaved, and then there are 4wd roads. No 4 wd I know would take this road knowing what it is and ATVs are not allowed. An ATV is the only vehicle able to make this - one needs high clearance, helmet and a strong gut to endure the tremendous bumps! We had to LOOK for the road at times and when we finally ran out of road before we got to the overlook, we just turned back.

There is Looking Glass Rock also not in the park. When approaching this rock, we did not think it was an arch until we got completely around the other side. We got out, the dog got out, and we climbed up to the arch.

There are lovely views.

There are lines in the stone itself recording the different layers laid down over the years.

These are called Needles although I think they are just pillars with sandstone caps.

On the north end, there is a road that leads to the Green River - this one is passable but steep and it was worth the drive.

Cave Spring is in the North part and is a seep that never goes dry. It did used to have much more water in it but even now stays wet enough Dog drank from it. This is an easy trail but does have a couple ladders if you want to do the entire loop. You need not do the ladders to see this part. Note the writings on the cave wall.

The main attraction at the north end is Upevil Dome. This attraction is the result of meteorite impact. It was unknown until recent discovery of shocked quartz what caused this crater but the finding proved it is the result of meteorite impact. There is a short climb up a fairly good trail to the overlook.

Mesa Arch is not a difficult walk and there is a nice view through the arch.

I liked this little windswept hole, arch in the making that is beside this arch.

The last stop was a view of the canyon and river. We thought it was odd that the overlook was made by the Utah National Guard.

And this last one is just for fun. We are indeed having the time of our lives, two retired folks, a 14 foot travel trailer and a dog. Life is good. The next stop is Capitol Reef and cooler weather probably without internet connectivity - we are hoping to get a spot in the park away from traffic noise. Get out there and enjoy your National Parks! These are your tax dollars, your lands and they are magnificent and amazing.

Arches National Park

     We decided to stay central to both Arches and Canyonlands in Moab. Moab is a small city but has many RV parks. Unfortunately these are all right on the busy road so there is road noise. Had we known, we would have reserved a campsite for 2 days in one of the two parks. Neither park has showers or hookups but offers the quiet one associates with camping. The RV park we wound up in was named Canyonlands and was certainly adequate for our needs. Clean bathrooms, a pool, full hookups but it was the most expensive we have encountered at 50 bucks a night and was very crowded and the sites quite small. Arches was the first stop after parking the trailer and the sun was almost down.
     At first glance the rocks look like the spine of some long dead beast but on second look seem to appear as all kinds of shapes and forms.

There is the petrified sand dunes that look like a painting of haystacks,

And the park has a great reputation of sunsets.

There is the obligatory picture of Balanced Rock but honestly, I was more impressed with the Balancing Rock seen at Garden of the Gods. This is Balanced Rock at sunset in Arches.

We took the Salt Valley off road - not a bad road. Nice views without people around. This is from the second day there.

I spotted our first and so far only snake. What do you think?

This one is called the Whale.

This is Mesa Arch - really cool and a very short walk. No pets allowed. Dog had to stay in the car.

The cool thing was walking between the rocks to see it - hidden away.

Then there was this one - neither of us could remember the name.

And the one most photographed, delicate arch. Park rules clearly state no climbing on the named arches. People were climbing all over them. If the park is supposed to protect the arches, they were clearly not doing their job but then again I am sure they are understaffed due to budget restrictions. People are really stupid in that we saw one chubby man standing on top of one of the arches that is not very stable and had a sign saying so. The arch was a simple meeting of two stones and had been crumbling but the man climbed up it anyway - it was easily accessed. Not bright.

But then there was the unexpected sights like these sand dunes of different colors. Some of these have sparkly gypsum pieces laying on them that shimmer in the sunlight.

This is a hopper truck delivering sand to the parking lot that is being made bigger to accommodate so many visitors. This is the parking lot before the delicate arch parking lot.

This is my personal favorite and as far as I know is unnamed, I would call it the stupa because that is what it looks like. I liked the colors at sunset with the mountains in the distance.

Arches is a small park and while we liked it, after seeing Canyonlands, I cannot understand how Arches was allowed into the National Park system as it is not unique and one of the mandates is that the area be unique. I am disappointed that money is spent in double to protect both of these parks yet none is spent on Hovenweep that we had seen because it is not a National Park but a Monument. I don't know who has the political pull to make 5 National Parks in Utah but to us this is excessive and a waste of your tax monies. Parks need to be unique and while Arches is beautiful, it is not unique. If you see Canyonlands and the rock arches there, you will  have seen the natural beauty that is Arches. We had a great time here but if you are pressed for time - see Canyonlands! Get out there and see your National Parks - your tax dollars at work!

Hovenweep National Monument Coloroado

   Hovenweep! We almost missed this hidden treasure. Why this is a National Monument and not included in Mesa Verde is a disgrace to the beauty and history of this place - put this on your bucket list! This place is little visited, off the beaten path but so worth it. Lace up your boots and get ready for a fine walk back in time.
   It is not one place but a collection of places. There are ruins of castles, villages and simple homes. The first is dubbed Cutthroat Castle. This is disturbing that nothing is protecting these structures from theft or vandalism.

     This ruin is the easiest to get to in that a trail goes all the way up to the ruin. You are free to touch and explore it as you wish for the most part. Obviously you must take care as the ruin is built on the edge of a tall hill. The trail leading there is unmarked in places but is the typical sandy trail in this part of the country and the only part that was difficult was where the trail hugs the cliff - just don't look down. I am not superstitious but about 300 yards before arriving within sight of the ruin, there is a peculiar quiet and you seem to know you are about to encounter something very different, something one needs to be quiet in the presence of. 

    There was no one else here, just the two of us and the dog. We left the site with only the lizards to watch over it.

     Hovenweep is an odd place in that there is no map, no trail guide until you happen to find the places where the trailhead is and there is a metal box with an incomplete map inside along with a thumbnail of the history. We both agreed this is a place the park service really doesn't want you to find and doesn't encourage you to explore. This is a place that needs to be a park so that it can receive the equal protection of Mesa Verde that it deserves. The place below is Painted Hand. It is called this because there are petroglyphs of hands on the inside of the round structure. Take a good look at the structure - we walked to this. This was a short but very difficult walk.

     This looks like just one ruin but it is not - it is a complex of structures and most can only be seen when in close proximity. There are cliff  dwelling ruins along with this tower. If you want to see this one though, be warned that although it is a very short walk, it is very steep and there is a passage so narrow that one must turn on ones side to make it through the passage between the boulders. The dog would not even walk down it. I don't blame her.

    Make sure you are wearing hard hiking boots, bring water and wear a hat to protect you from the sun. I brought 2 cameras and getting back up with the long lens made it a little cumbersome. The view is excellent from here perched on  the cliff. Once again, there is nothing protecting these ruins and I am sure there is a lot of stone permanently missing from the ruins. The painted hand is inside the round structure and has obviously been touched many times. Really glad we got to see this but I wonder if it will be around for the next generation to see.

     The next place we saw was the last one we walked to - it was a very full day of walking and scampering around rocks. This place is called Holly. This will take your breath away. It does not look like Native Americans built this, it looks like some European castle. That same feeling of quiet awe came over us. While the building in the center built on the boulder is astounding and immediately gets attention because of the depth of the canyon, the huge building in the distance grabs your curiosity and wonder next.

     The area obviously suffered an earthquake at some time such that the rocks where some of the structure is built shifted, yet the adobe mud on these rocks held and this wall still holds to the now slanted boulders. 

     There was an odd light across the big structure. The path continues across to it but we decided not to walk further. The day was late and our legs and feet were tired from all the scampering.

     There are a few more ruins called Hackberry and Horseshoe. These we did not walk to - it took the entire day to find and explore what we did. I am very happy we got to do this and sad to think the next generation may not be so lucky since these have no protection sitting out under the sun open to all to see, touch and explore.

Get out there while you can, explore the back roads!