The Great Sand Dunes National Park exit

Anticipation built as we approached The Great Sand Dune.

I'm not sure what we had expected, but, “Great” should not be used in this case. What awaits the visitor here is vast empty space, no commerce of any kind and a different take on the word “camping” with a strong and constantly blowing wind. Be aware of this wind if you plan a visit as it is what forms the dunes.

Great Sand Dunes became a park in 2004 after being a National Landmark since 1932. The difference between those designations as a tourist is that a landmark is a sort of stop and see where a park is a stop and stay. However, the legal difference is that there are more restrictions regarding preservation with a park than a landmark. The vast nothingness begins about 45 minutes before arriving at the park, we don't know if this nothingness is because of the restrictions on water or if it simply went bust before the restrictions. There is beauty here but my vote would be for keeping it with landmark status, not as park status. It is certainly worth seeing but staying there is not recommended. The only campgrounds available within 40 minutes of the park have no showers or have only cold showers (what's the difference really). The campground we stayed at was the only one available outside the park that was within 40 minutes and it had only cold showers. They did of course have electric hook up but that is all. Water was available only if one walked to the communal drinking water spigot. Most of the campsites (and I use that term loosely) were nothing but a pile of rocks forming a fire ring and a picnic table with no facilities of any kind, not even an outhouse. There were bunkhouses as well with only a bed, no way to keep warm, no facilities of any kind. This seemed very odd to us but since being in Colorado we have experienced no showers, pay showers and cold showers. The campground was $35 a night which on the high end yet provided basically nothing. If you are expecting even the most basic of services, you will be disappointed. If you are expecting vast nothingness, high winds and unusual scenes including wildlife, this is for you.

The dune is formed by winds that continually and forcefully blow but cannot make it over the very beautiful Sangre de Cristo mountain range thus deposit here. For more information regarding just how this mass of sand was and is continually formed, visit http://www.nps.gov/grsa/learn/nature/sanddunes.htm

Here are some pictures of the dunes and some deer. The mule deer stride differently than our white tail such that instead of running, they sort of hop or jump with all feet off the ground and then land once more. The creek here shown is Medano creek and is very shallow running right in front of the dune.

Just outside the park but inside the campground, we found this old train car now being used for storage. Somewhere around here I lost a rock hammer.

The wind is so strong it rocked the camper all night. It never stops. Here is a shot of the continual wind blowing dust, sand and small stones eventually collecting on the dunes.

The moon was beginning to set when we left, it was the morning of the blood moon but we did not see it, just a nice big full moon.

Leaving the park, this picture sort of says it all. There is nothing here and while there was once, there is no more.

 Not being flatlanders, the great nothingness took us aback a bit. It just seems as it goes on forever...and ever. Clumpy grasses, sagebrush and scrubby cactus. The sagebrush I did enjoy getting up close to and it really smelled good when picked - in my opinion. Like domestic sage, it is just that - sage.

The trip from here to Mesa Verde was spectacular as we crossed the continental divide in the San Juan Mountains at Wolf Creek pass. The small towns passed along the way were amazing. The first town on the way to Mesa Verde we passed was Center Colorado and a merchant called Edwards who traded in "Wool Hides Pelts Burlap". There was a Family Dollar store here as well, a few low slung houses and trailers with nothing but bare dirt for a yard and nothing else. While it seemed farming was what used to be done here, little of that was going on now. There were more essentially empty towns along the way and then we arrived in South Fork where the elevation is 9,000 ft, the Rio Grande river passes through and where there used to be a scenic railroad. Nothing is more sad than to see a defunct railroad grown up in the weeds. The name on the water tank says D & RGW RR Royal Gorge Route Scenic Line.

We saw some riders with a pack of beagles just having a bit of fun and it made us miss our horse riding daughter, this one is for her.

Passing through the high mountains is spectacular and pictures cannot do it justice but here are a few as we made it over the high mountains at about 13,000 ft and an overlook to the Weminuche wilderness. It looks unreal doesn't it? Buddy took these, the altitude was dizzying!

Pagosa Springs is the next town and only really living town we pass on the way so far. The claim to fame here is the natural hot spring at 145 degrees. This is a sulfur spring and at 145 degrees, we passed on this one. Like Hot Springs, it would need to be cooled before a person could get in and that would require a tub. It is obviously a tourist attraction with many hotels and resort areas. According to the town website it touts having the countries deepest hot spring at over 1000 feet deep. I could not exactly verify this. If you are into spas, nice views, this is a very nice area to be in and in fact many residents here are second home owners. Neither one of us are spa folk and sulfur is not something either of us care for. If you want a very fine hot spring experience, please visit the Jefferson Pools in Warm Springs Virginia as the water there is perfect for taking a dip and usually has very little sulfur. Warm or hot water gurgling from the ground is a pretty amazing thing and if you haven't experienced it, you should at least once in your life somewhere. If you go to Pagosa Springs, check out the actual natural spring - we did not but we knew where it was.

Chimney Rock National Monument just to the south of here was closed. I had never heard of a National Monument being closed but a picture from the distance is really probably enough.

Durango is the largest town before getting to Mesa Verde, The roads, businesses, sidewalks and parks all speak of a successful, progressive city and is home to one of the last narrow gauge railroads left in america - the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge. This is open year around but of course does the bulk of business in the warmer months. It is under new ownership as of 1997 and if you have not ever ridden the scenic rails of this country, please, I urge you to do so - you are keeping the history alive as well as seeing this country unmatched by any other means. We plan to return in the warm months to take this ride as well as the Cumbres & Toltec. This is not to be missed. 

And then we arrived in Mesa Verde - the loveliest park we have been to so far - amazing. But that is another story! This country is beautiful and even in the vast nothingness there is great beauty - we are having the time of our lives. I leave you with a picture of what we see from our campground in the shadow of Mesa Verde taken in the noonday sun. Stay tuned!